tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47528432239338779702024-03-07T12:17:02.562-08:00Feed DogQuilting, sewing, and craft by pattern designer Kevin Kosbab.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.comBlogger14125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-72531376070183266082014-01-06T10:00:00.000-08:002014-01-06T10:00:02.365-08:00Christmas Catch-Up: Simple Needle Book tutorial<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-YgFAGfwzQpI/Usn6AL0uwRI/AAAAAAAAAb8/PI1SyU_a0e8/s1600-h/IMG_4645%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img alt="Simple Needle Books" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-DYz_KwegplY/Usn6AwpzonI/AAAAAAAAAcE/UGkd9dm69VE/IMG_4645_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="350" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 0px auto;" title="Simple Needle Books" width="420" /></a><br />
Shhh, don’t tell <a href="http://happyappliquer.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">the Mother</a>! I made a version of this for her for Christmas, but shipping and travel plans got miscoordinated and she hasn’t got it yet. It’s just a quicky project I threw in with some other stuff for her, so the surprise shouldn’t be totally ruined.<br /><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN_To_yfuyOQKOGQnhzhn6iXYdtzwbF8_QSalxgA0YrlIqjb8sYiq9aq9b4VBLigMFRy8mv75wz1W-A1MsDdh4pL4s1KWkMWW7jBTZs_m8ier06Qqv_fhxL0SQQNpJ2KPFr1T0fiZTXVYH/s1600-h/IMG_4649%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img alt="Simple Needle Books" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-b5eQfthY9uc/Usn6CRmCv9I/AAAAAAAAAcU/1srfdLzdlCk/IMG_4649_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="346" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 0px auto;" title="Simple Needle Books" width="420" /></a><br />
It’s not a fussy project—just a little something functional that can be prettied up as much as you like by choosing fun fabrics or embellishments. A sewist can never have enough pincushions, and spare needle cases don’t seem amiss to me either—inevitably I end up sticking needles in one of said pincushions and then losing them inside, so the more proper places for needles the better! (There’s a pocket for needle packets inside, so you can also keep fresh needles separate from their gently used brethren.)<br /><br />
<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-jJnCu6bYTfk/Usn6C_64R9I/AAAAAAAAAcc/D9nCK3fjWOo/s1600-h/IMG_4654%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img alt="Simple Needle Book" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Oe6zq1voATY/Usn6Dooe0yI/AAAAAAAAAck/sbOXWm1YeKk/IMG_4654_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" height="386" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 0px auto;" title="Simple Needle Book" width="420" /></a><br />
<h2>
Finished Size</h2>
2½" × 4" (folded closed)<br /><br />
<h2>
Materials</h2>
This project is great for scraps of fabrics and interfacing—I don’t know exactly what interfacings I used, ’cause I pulled bits from the scrap bin. You just want a combo of fabric and interfacing that’s slightly stiffer than floppy quilting cotton alone.<br /><br />
<ul>
<li>5½" × 4½" piece of linen or quilting cotton for exterior </li>
<li>9½" × 4½" piece of quilting cotton for interior </li>
<li>2" × 3½" piece of felt (preferably wool or wool-blend) </li>
<li>5" × 4" piece of <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=477359&m=46996&afftrack=&urllink=www%2Ethermowebonline%2Ecom%2Fp%2Fheatnbond%2Dnon%2Dwoven%2Dfusible%2Dmedium%2Dweight%2Dwhite%2D20%2Din%2Dx%2Dby%2Dthe%2Dyard%3Fpp%3D24" target="_blank">medium-weight fusible interfacing</a> </li>
<li>9" × 4" piece of <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=477359&m=46996&afftrack=&urllink=www%2Ethermowebonline%2Ecom%2Fp%2Fheatnbond%2Dnon%2Dwoven%2Dfusible%2Dlight%2Dweight%2Dwhite%2D20%2Din%2Dx%2Dby%2Dthe%2Dyard%3Fpp%3D24" target="_blank">lightweight fusible interfacing</a>
</li>
</ul><br />
<h2>
Instructions</h2>
<ol>
<li>Fuse the medium-weight interfacing centered on the wrong side of the exterior fabric, following manufacturer’s instructions. Fuse the lightweight interfacing centered on the wrong side of the interior fabric. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ZaS0RuYNYLGXBliRdnuBw5xsQRFvP34i_RCJZzOK6Dr6DogdlWJz9dsjV-T66w5lAZeu0wJJ9dC0n2foVBuPDXY6Y6jtfQlWn36kWrko5tQ7UOIdNjH58l6mkYOyGMVCrxsdVsENekQS/s1600-h/IMG_46213.jpg"><img alt="interfaced fabrics" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkMs0-f3GujmX_q84ti3sXSbIdvzkz5_89tW3K31P0MoVNKp3c0DuJLHlQc2eEuO_OzEMgERDSIRlHEY14zpDchyphenhyphenVIiF_jedQOwyV8cElHC7tM0AoDLMnGjWiEMY6alZxr6UD-T9_O1HZ-/?imgmax=800" height="350" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 0px auto;" title="interfaced fabrics" width="390" /></a> </li><br />
<li>Fold the interior piece right sides together 5¼" from the right-hand short end.<br /><br /><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-nr7SYCrInis/Usn6Fy5Qx-I/AAAAAAAAAc8/tJ2DkxAG1hs/s1600-h/IMG_45593.jpg"><img alt="first fold to 5¼" wide" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-clLAZanbCjw/Usn6GfFx1TI/AAAAAAAAAdE/jafVTCrs3Mw/IMG_4559_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="299" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 0px auto;" title="first fold to 5¼" wide" width="390" /></a><br />Then fold the upper section back to form the pocket so the folded piece measures 4½" × 5½". Press to hold the folds.<br /><br /><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Ua2IKHDh3ug/Usn6HcY7ptI/AAAAAAAAAdM/Teilizz8vk0/s1600-h/IMG_45623.jpg"><img alt="fold pocket back on itself" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-NEQr9lHWMIs/Usn6IEBFnrI/AAAAAAAAAdU/DBGM9TDt83Q/IMG_4562_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="307" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 0px auto;" title="fold pocket back on itself" width="390" /></a> </li><br />
<li>With right sides up, place the felt on the unfolded section of the interior piece about ½" from the raw edges. Stitch the felt to the interior along the felt’s top edge; you can use a decorative stitch like I did here, but a straight stitch will work too—just be sure to secure the ends. I also trimmed the bottom edge of the felt with a scalloped rotary blade.<br /><br /><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-OwPrmrfoOZQ/Usn6InkWsnI/AAAAAAAAAdc/gEYjQooykiY/s1600-h/IMG_46363.jpg"><img alt="felt needle pad attached with decorative stitch" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-NM-eqoxQ6YU/Usn6JRWHjUI/AAAAAAAAAdk/xEXp7dyFh1I/IMG_4636_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="290" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 0px auto;" title="felt needle pad attached with decorative stitch" width="390" /></a> </li><br />
<li>If desired, embellish the exterior. The interfacing is a handy stabilizer for decorative stitching—see my <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/features/stitches/guides/needle-and-thread-embroidery-detail.html">stitch guide</a> for the combination of built-in stitches I used on the linen needle book shown at the top of the post.<br /> </li><br />
<li>Put the interior and exterior pieces right sides together, making sure the pocket is still folded so all raw edges match. Sew around the perimeter with a ¼" seam allowance, leaving a gap for turning on the bottom edge, avoiding the pocket section.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNsqZwk8PBBpBasHtUagvlbWJpZ_3-jincMHtGEUfFaSELPrK_S893RtZcvj_3T3u-1hr9y46934lIpRIUdLxppAbzk7r1t4pFoRNMtD5EHeiJUq25VJT9HVN08W5QAY27cYONTz3XY8q5/s1600-h/IMG_46313.jpg"><img alt="opening left in bottom edge to side of pocket" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-no631WjRXV4/Usn6KtT3UAI/AAAAAAAAAd0/30ONWvsZu-8/IMG_4631_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="306" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 0px auto;" title="opening left in bottom edge to side of pocket" width="390" /></a> </li><br />
<li>Clip the corners and turn the needle case right side out through the opening. (If you’re paying attention, you’ll see that I wasn’t…)<br /><br /><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-YaQU2_osCA0/Usn6LGdAFNI/AAAAAAAAAd8/9XHqcORY22Y/s1600-h/IMG_46373.jpg"><img alt="oops, I left my opening at the top rather than the bottom...no big deal" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjetX1wdldHdCNVlSMyYg3RFMecGTfzgfXVA3mMl9zBxsREAIANVViMaAPja6kQeeUlhJt9CgOnMLm815Yv2tiujA9wJpIwXXC3h-_pTo0TF8f1iOkw42IPj6pnmRcWZK3YgYvqIU3b1agM/?imgmax=800" height="293" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 0px auto;" title="oops, I left my opening at the top rather than the bottom...no big deal" width="390" /></a><br />Push out the corners gently and press flat, folding in the seam allowances at the opening. <br /><br /><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-cdb4-mMMAOQ/Usn6NM9d2EI/AAAAAAAAAeM/00HdhmKEVik/s1600-h/IMG_46393.jpg"><img alt="edges pressed" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Dzd0suCpsFo/Usn6NqHv2dI/AAAAAAAAAeU/vrNxksGsA2Q/IMG_4639_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" height="306" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 0px auto;" title="edges pressed" width="390" /></a> </li><br />
<li>With the needle case open (i.e., unfolded), topstitch along all outer edges, closing the gap in the bottom. <br /><br /><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Gh1hN7QuDqM/Usn6OdoTNvI/AAAAAAAAAec/auzzZjI0ZSw/s1600-h/IMG_46413.jpg"><img alt="topstitching keeps edges nice and flat" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPVtog3Iuyo0ZoprOnKQ8lgu7IO8pawo__uhiDvmZsZ_whuA0U3tcV-tMNcXY1y75tGs5X-A_PYI2Rn9SV5qOawBPkYuXtsMFC6kF9-TH6djHFFWO9VIGfZz_ayTOhmcA_uXOxU7tRh07A/?imgmax=800" height="282" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 0px auto;" title="topstitching keeps edges nice and flat" width="390" /></a> </li><br />
<li>Fold the needle case in half and press to set the crease in the center.<br /><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-2YRT-w-C0dg/Usn6Pk8YQCI/AAAAAAAAAes/YNKl2akKfQY/s1600-h/IMG_46433.jpg"><br /><img alt="finished needle book, closed" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsmv_2xTWPmnuEdVnrhwf4muZI36zx4kcqdee3eDmr73YaSWCjVdZfas-mdgSTXlQ3E01a4Y4IlbbLRk5kBs-w3wdDebRRSksCtr54ERfRe3VYBd8cN9TePRZIVRLYbvYa4RA5_fgO01KZ/?imgmax=800" height="382" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 0px auto;" title="finished needle book, closed" width="390" /></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-2YRT-w-C0dg/Usn6Pk8YQCI/AAAAAAAAAes/YNKl2akKfQY/s1600-h/IMG_46433.jpg"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcALcuKD9X07qHnTz6Imb6xxfsozNJz6KxHKUSVTKCGDUvAbJddZuowqEc_rfZe4QmJI7cZKD3TG30P8Cp0d406QnGkLb-B-BqIbkNS_H8lxnl5Kw9pXo6gmtH8_wIte-nRuocM3nBYekZ/s1600-h/IMG_46443.jpg"><img alt="finished needle book, open" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivfEu-BEorjklIRkBF2uhSWLaDudHXKmf3LfhceEZMAFqhXzU-HA2L4fh4j5bnOQIoDcTrU5jNzUzZaelU5NxZKbJYyFkYxcV6zH8U-6L4uGAdcLeJFyOywnXCZn_9yzKN-nzAigpto4l0/?imgmax=800" height="288" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 0px auto;" title="finished needle book, open" width="390" /></a></li>
</ol>
That’s it! Stay tuned for a tute on ribbon appliqué, which I used on another of these needle books as well as kitchen towels.<br /><br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-10061116559377537042012-11-21T10:36:00.001-08:002012-11-21T10:58:36.856-08:00Solids in EQ7<p>It’s been awfully quiet round these parts, mainly because my book and several other projects are keeping me busy, but I wanted to come out of the woodwork to mention a <a href="http://doyoueq.com/blog/2012/11/the-benefits-of-designing-with-solid-colors-in-eq7-from-feeddog/">guest post I wrote up</a> for the <a href="http://doyoueq.com/blog/" target="_blank">EQ blog</a>, which went live yesterday.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-MDtlSzpb5w4/UK0fOxUvyqI/AAAAAAAAASc/IhPoczyRnkU/s1600-h/solidslib%25255B3%25255D.png"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" title="solidslib" alt="solidslib" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-KpSCnf23Fv0/UK0fQPqvqEI/AAAAAAAAASk/69IW1MWc8_Y/solidslib_thumb%25255B1%25255D.png?imgmax=800" width="420" height="355"></a></p> <p>It’s all about using solid fabrics in <a href="<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NTJNNA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=maisonaise-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=B003NTJNNA">Electric Quilt 7</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=&l=as2&o=1&a=B003NTJNNA&camp=217145&creative=399373" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />" target="_blank">EQ7</a>, including converting the built-in solid colors to real solid fabrics produced by various manufacturers. The magic ingredient is a Solid Fabrics library you can download and add to your EQ7 Fabric Library, painstakingly created by yours truly (OK, so I take perverse pleasure in cataloguing and organizing things like that, but it still took quite a bit of time).</p> <p>The download link was left out when the post went up yesterday, so in the meantime you can <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/downloads/eq7-solid-fabrics-library.html">download the library from my website</a>. <strong>Update:</strong> The library file is now uploaded and linked from <a href="http://doyoueq.com/blog/2012/11/the-benefits-of-designing-with-solid-colors-in-eq7-from-feeddog/">the EQ blog post</a>, so you can download it direct from there too.</p> <p>It’s a long post, but if you design in EQ and sew with solid fabrics, I think you’ll really find it helpful!</p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-44406067139972422342011-08-22T15:21:00.001-07:002011-08-22T15:21:39.151-07:00EQ7 Tutorial: Changing block size and merging shapes into a single EQ block<p>If you’ve started working in <a href="<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NTJNNA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=maisonaise-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=B003NTJNNA">Electric Quilt 7</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=&l=as2&o=1&a=B003NTJNNA&camp=217145&creative=399373" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />" target="_blank">EQ7</a> on your <a href="http://feeddog.blogspot.com/2011/08/giveaway-accuquilt-block-design-contest.html">block design competition</a> entry, you may have noticed that the <a href="http://www.accuquilt.com/" target="_blank">AccuQuilt</a> blocks are drawn at the same overall size as the corresponding die—so if you want to use shapes from a 6" × 12" die, say, it looks like your block has to be that size: if you change the dimensions of your block canvas in EQ, the shapes change too, which means they’re no longer cuttable using the the dies. It gets even trickier when you want to work with shapes from multiple dies to make a block, especially when the shapes come from dies that are different sizes. <img style="display: inline; float: left" title="medallion2" alt="medallion2" align="left" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZouDwySahSbe47WrPUON2Xn-SADxgfbX5T5g0CzewD9vHAyrwz88qqzNYwygtTh7RZJ-E9d5EA7iNhIq-L7FsfwdpzYIGqFraFDpgViA23iq4bQXP020wh_lT8G-AW9XAb1SncrV_U4tr/?imgmax=800" width="240" height="240"></p> <p>But it can be done! This 12" block is proof of that. It uses shapes from the <a href="http://www.accuquilt.com/go-daisy.html" target="_blank">Go Daisy die</a> (6" × 6") and the <a href="http://www.accuquilt.com/go-feathers.html" target="_blank">Go Feathers die</a> (5" × 10"), and the shapes are all kept at their original, die-cuttable sizes.</p> <p>Here’s how I was able to retain the original sizes and work with shapes from multiple dies in a single block. This is the easiest way I’ve found, but leave a comment if you have any other tricks!</p> <ol> <li>After adding the AccuQuilt die blocks you want to work with to your Sketchbook, open one of them on the Block Worktable (this one is the full Daisy block). Make sure your Precision Bar is showing (turn it on or off in the View menu). Select all the shapes shown in the Applique tab with the Pick tool (hit Ctrl+A to select them all automatically), and note the dimensions shown in the Precision Bar:<br><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Jxitf-FvLgU/TlLWPpDH2KI/AAAAAAAAAMc/biyQL8_f_4Y/s1600-h/image%25255B8%25255D.png"><img style="margin: 10px 0px 15px; display: inline" title="image" alt="image" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-gcifhFB59sM/TlLWQQypgSI/AAAAAAAAAMg/zhxPfV31mjM/image_thumb%25255B5%25255D.png?imgmax=800" width="390" height="437"></a> <li>Deselect the shapes by clicking elsewhere on the worktable. The Precision Bar will now show the size of the block itself:<br><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii5xIwwP2YEQniPpwcOgfmO0cSEfrTPh-pJ-TREC6M6ScsWvvsw4u8jK6T6zmfX6SKgi0MrSWCEAjnc9cJor8xieKJgxIbDQlgYou1naU5QWxs0kMS4M2Z1XXqT6AlnzX-a_QleLHDk4Jv/s1600-h/image%25255B13%25255D.png"><img style="margin: 10px 0px; display: inline" title="image" alt="image" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgekPvvugOuK7qRlqPI2_VFlKdbbbN8ScwSLugYnau3gwO78g__Dj3UXRU9ITj596nFed6_8FGMR8xEvKY9rLBuodIwPakQU3npBfOVfU3RJWvTlgH5IVmbdrzExtEB4jPGDW3bSsIi9sOj/?imgmax=800" width="390" height="437"></a><br>Since the Daisy die measures (nominally) 6" × 6", that’s the size this block was drawn at. Change the numbers in the Block Width and Block Height fields to the size you want your actual block to be—for this example, a 12" × 12" block. The shapes will stretch to match the new proportions:<br><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-LhmS_VJLKKM/TlLWTFlUL3I/AAAAAAAAAMs/xxA_ud2BvKY/s1600-h/image%25255B18%25255D.png"><img style="margin: 10px 0px; display: inline" title="image" alt="image" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-oNt4Uee_Zcw/TlLWTzL6YeI/AAAAAAAAAMw/Drm3XcQ-QoE/image_thumb%25255B11%25255D.png?imgmax=800" width="390" height="437"></a><br>As a result, the block looks exactly the same at this point—only the ruler and Precision Bar show that it’s been scaled up to 12". But we want to use shapes we can actually cut with the die, so they have to be changed back to the size they were in the 6" block. <li>Select all the shapes again.<br><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkB_gakOp7qYOfgEpZYwqdwjR_K_n7Bs-4xIqspQJ9usV-qE2LVCpQcsj4ju8i-BFy1XiPKUnf5Hvt5SF6ONAobK8-UGOfcxN_GFNvzq3jEPfQnpPKSXcKZibMxbejpWkqgHx_dbM8oIAK/s1600-h/image%25255B23%25255D.png"><img style="margin: 10px 0px; display: inline" title="image" alt="image" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-4VkrSuTKg5Y/TlLWVQFnMQI/AAAAAAAAAM4/x5-RP1Gs7Jk/image_thumb%25255B14%25255D.png?imgmax=800" width="390" height="437"></a><br>The dimensions now shown in the Precision Bar aren’t significant. Replace them with those you noted in Step 1, and you’ll get this:<br><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-SkwbsFciwuk/TlLWWVchzsI/AAAAAAAAAM8/I7VxWQthXeY/s1600-h/image%25255B28%25255D.png"><img style="margin: 10px 0px; display: inline" title="image" alt="image" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRHZZ3P6ZPoznuSiifnI1Q8m3AEF90vtuyeIYokrGQ4lN1KEz1IAYOweAJQ_wUYnBlw8fCJTu3QYP8SSEx-dtLb5YKpPQZZq_l_dVfNFtbdyQjwT_25CIcY3qk182CzfzDDAhc5l5Co7lG/?imgmax=800" width="390" height="437"></a><br>The shapes are now back to the size at which they were originally drawn—that is, the size the die will actually cut. Save this block to the Sketchbook. If you want to design a block using shapes from just this one die, you can go ahead with your design at this point. But if you want to add shapes from other dies… <li>View the Sketchbook and edit the block with the shape you want to add. I only needed the teardrop shape from the Feathers die, so that’s the block I used. Again note the dimensions of the shape(s):<br><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGjWKwGurViLVdUrS5TGh-taxDX6S_cMvc8gAuzzVZMMcNwCRMEFm1SPz0ykp3hYWr9DbcyjG_39NgTC_N3-AxzSXS4hozv04Fi-ou1o_uZb5IKEJL4TRLM_ErQ5j4JqbUJlt8oX-vJB4w/s1600-h/image%25255B33%25255D.png"><img style="margin: 10px 0px; display: inline" title="image" alt="image" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN4ThM2VL6eu7AWPekcZ_A2E_20hdWKwP8N7cRaxvNK2xPcbVmcCtmdJh80z8DlQIzhKb88RMNzOD0EiSwtGtPQadYHV5XOprbqvUB8io3A4fnyCz8DIz8e37qfzecm207vgPBkEk34jG3/?imgmax=800" width="390" height="437"></a><br>Then copy the shape to the clipboard, using the toolbar button or Ctrl+C. <li>View the Sketchbook again and edit the block you saved in Step 3. Then paste the shape from the clipboard (toolbar or Ctrl+V). It will be selected when you paste it, showing that its dimensions have changed to suit the proportions of the new block:<br><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-28MfkhXBzA0/TlLWZ3yY7-I/AAAAAAAAANM/LcBpUbBjiPE/s1600-h/image%25255B38%25255D.png"><img style="margin: 10px 0px; display: inline" title="image" alt="image" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3c0nimT3p3A/TlLWa6Kdd6I/AAAAAAAAANQ/KWdrnipY2TY/image_thumb%25255B23%25255D.png?imgmax=800" width="390" height="437"></a><br>But again, this isn’t the shape’s size on the actual die. <li>Change the shape dimensions to those you recorded in Step 4:<br><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi39JG5XQT_JtjtYN7UHgtoBsaxQjc7PBJniaer130XNJSHreRcxbGVCxBkhdR2GR-qpazUczEeIf798xb4u4K0KVvW5CS_tOMS0k780MSu8lhWJriSePzMcEqXKyrHwVrC2EqiBnIJE6jZ/s1600-h/image%25255B46%25255D.png"><img style="margin: 10px 0px; display: inline" title="image" alt="image" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlbmicNNMMXuWT4jT7VhfDSU0vJHC7gP2CxyP9UhLZnJMLg2igxad5X61ppyxc8WVyXjzzx5kTk0nsl8-aMi1lB5OrV0QXoJbGP-RLVjYMaYdPw96K4hzLnuH05u518E2ZDWXH9ytyt_MK/?imgmax=800" width="390" height="437"></a><br>Now the shape is scaled appropriately, and you can move, rotate, flip, and otherwise rearrange the shapes with confidence that the die cutter will still work—as long as you don’t resize the shapes, of course.</li></ol> <p>By the way, this method will work for any EQ blocks, not just those based on AccuQuilt dies—pull shapes from the Block Library blocks into your own designs, or vice versa.</p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-67179934433270561512011-08-03T19:01:00.001-07:002011-08-03T19:01:34.659-07:00Tutorial: Fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies<p><a title="AccuQuilt pincushion" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/6007216224/"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" border="0" alt="AccuQuilt pincushion" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6128/6007216224_3b8b7b8397.jpg" width="420" height="315"></a></p> <p>Triangles cut from striped fabric can be used for lots of cool piecing effects, like setting the stripes to make concentric shapes or to radiate from a central point, as in this version of <a href="http://feeddog.blogspot.com/2011/07/tutorial-accuquilt-equilateral-triangle.html">my hexagon pincushion</a>. With a little care, this is pretty easy to do using an <a href="http://www.accuquilt.com/" target="_blank">AccuQuilt</a> Go triangle die—I’m again using the trusty <a href="http://www.accuquilt.com/go-equilateral-triangles.html" target="_blank">Equilateral Triangles die</a> they sent me, but this method could be adapted to any die for half-square triangles, isosceles triangles, or what-hast-thou.</p> <p>Definitely start by watching <a href="http://quiltpossible.com/" target="_blank">Ebony Love</a>’s video series (<a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/LoveBugStudios#p/u/1/qAXWfsec0i4" target="_blank">part 1</a>, <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/LoveBugStudios#p/u/2/zyYKhwHv4Q4" target="_blank">part 2</a>, and <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/LoveBugStudios#p/u/3/rBC50KwxSNU" target="_blank">part 3</a>) on marking AccuQuilt dies. She gives a very thorough explanation of how she marks her dies not only to make the blades easier to see but also to help with fabric placement. Per her recommendation, I used a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009L1WE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=maisonaise-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=B00009L1WE">silver Sharpie pen</a><img style="border-bottom-style: none !important; border-right-style: none !important; margin: 0px; border-top-style: none !important; border-left-style: none !important" border="0" alt="" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=&l=as2&o=1&a=B00009L1WE&camp=217145&creative=399369" width="1" height="1"> to mark up my die; other opaque, light-colored permanent markers could work too.</p> <a name='more'></a> <p>This tute covers marking the Equilateral Triangles to cut the radiating stripes I used for the pink hexagon pincushion—you’ll want to change the position and direction of your guide markings if you’re going for a different effect.</p> <ol> <li>Start by tracing the blades of the die with your marker. The thickness of the marker line is greater than that of the blade, so if you’ve covered all the marker lines with fabric you want to cut, you’ll know the shape will be cut completely. <br><a title="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/6006737631/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px 15px" border="0" alt="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6001/6006737631_2b0e01bca0.jpg" width="390" height="274"></a> <li>Find the vertical center of your triangle to mark guide lines. The long edges of the biggest Equilateral Triangle on the die is 2½", so measure in 1¼" from the corner and mark at a right angle to the blade. You can continue this line through the shape to extend past the opposite point, or you can just mark outside the shape like I’ve done; in any case, extend the guide lines ½–¾" past the edges of the shape. <br><a title="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/6007216332/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px" border="0" alt="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6129/6007216332_d138f95015.jpg" width="390" height="290"></a>The Equilateral Triangles die cuts 2-up of each size triangle and I did mark both of my big triangles, but unless your particular stripe is the cosmic soulmate of your die, you probably won’t be able to cut two triangles side by side with the same stripe placement, so you really only need to mark the one triangle you’ll use for stripe cutting. <li>Rotary cut strips of fabric. To maintain accuracy, I used 2 strips of fabric, each cut at 3×9", to get my 6 triangles. This gives a comfortable margin to ensure you get 3 full triangles from each strip, with stripes in the same position on each. Make sure the stripe you want in the center of your triangles is in the center of the strip (i.e., under the 1½" mark on your ruler). <li>Place one fabric strip on the die, just covering the marked-up shape at one end of the strip. Center the central stripe on the guide line you marked: <br><a title="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/6006737807/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px 15px" border="0" alt="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6022/6006737807_3eb7887491.jpg" width="390" height="345"></a> <li>Fold the strip down to cover the die shape again, making sure the central stripe is centered on the guide line at the fold. Try not to shift the lowest layer of fabric out of place—the central stripe should always be centered on the guide lines. <br><a title="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/6007281432/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px 15px" border="0" alt="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6136/6007281432_64069a6004.jpg" width="390" height="366"></a> <li>Fold the strip back up again. The die shape should be covered 3 times now, and you should be able to see that both guide lines are centered on the central stripe. <br><a title="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/6006752409/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px 15px" border="0" alt="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6129/6006752409_ae1d2da14f.jpg" width="390" height="285"></a> <li>Carefully place the cutting pad over the die and fabric—don’t disturb your careful fabric placement! Then roll it through the die cutter as usual. Repeat from step 4 for the remaining fabric strip, and you should have 6 triangles with stripes running straight up from base to point.<br><a title="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/6006738019/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px 15px" border="0" alt="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6148/6006738019_0e033e2ec7.jpg" width="390" height="352"></a></li></ol> <p>You may notice that my stripes aren’t <em>exactly</em> lined up. I’m going to look for a finer-point Sharpie to make more precise guide lines; for my purposes, the stripes met each other well enough at the seams, and where they meet at the center is covered with a button and flowers anyway.</p> <p>Before you get cutting, though, a note about the anatomy of stripes: the pink floral stripe I used was symmetrical, so folding the fabric back and forth resulted in essentially the same configuration of stripes in the finished triangles. If the stripes aren’t symmetrical, one of the three triangles will be upside down compared to the other two:</p> <p><a title="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/6006673641/"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" border="0" alt="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6002/6006673641_6f54b2427d.jpg" width="306" height="480"></a></p> <p>The upside-down triangle results in stripes that are a mirror image of the others. This stripe almost looks symmetrical, but compare the blue and brown stripes to either side of the center dotted stripe—they’re not quite the same. Arranged willy-nilly, the stripes won’t line up properly:</p> <p><a title="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/6006673571/"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" border="0" alt="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6146/6006673571_41d3bb2682.jpg" width="420" height="223"></a></p> <p>But they <em>will</em> join up neatly at the seams if you alternate the placement of the normal stripes and the mirrored stripes:</p> <p><a title="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/6007216064/"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" border="0" alt="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6148/6007216064_d60bb84805.jpg" width="420" height="227"></a></p> <p>Much better, eh? This’ll work for the whole hexagon as long as you arrange and fold the second fabric strip opposite to the first so you have an equal number of normal stripes and mirrored stripes, and continue alternating mirror vs. normal.</p> <p><a title="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/6007215854/"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" border="0" alt="fussy-cutting stripes with AccuQuilt triangle dies" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6149/6007215854_b7b7419e81.jpg" width="420" height="414"></a></p> <p> <p>At first I didn’t think these asymmetric stripes would work at all with this technique, so I was pleasantly surprised when I worked out how to do it. I’m thinking this will make a pretty snazzy pincushion—maybe edged with some brown ball trim?</p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-7619175052927036062011-07-27T16:19:00.001-07:002011-07-27T16:19:53.373-07:00Tutorial: AccuQuilt Equilateral Triangle pincushion<p><a title="AccuQuilt pincushion" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5982320879/"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" border="0" alt="AccuQuilt pincushion" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6002/5982320879_9ca4cd0804.jpg" width="420" height="315"></a></p> <p>When <a href="http://feeddog.blogspot.com/2011/07/initial-thoughts-on-accuquilt-go-baby.html">I first talked</a> about the dies <a href="http://www.accuquilt.com/" target="_blank">AccuQuilt</a> sent me, I mentioned that dies like the Equilateral Triangles and Hexagons were designed to work together. If you sew six of the triangles together, they’re the same size as the corresponding hexagon—and that’s really all there is to this pincushion! But I’ll walk you through the details.</p> <p>For most of the pincushions I’ve made so far, I used two different fabrics (longtime readers may recognize scraps from my <a href="http://www.interweavestore.com/Sewing/Patterns/Hilltop-Drive-Baby-Quilt.html" target="_blank">Hilltop Drive quilt</a> for <a href="http://www.interweavestitch.com/" target="_blank"><em>Stitch</em></a>), but you could also make it scrappy with a different fabric for each triangle. In my next post I’ll show you how I matched the stripes up using just one fabric for the pink pincushion.</p> <p>Each of these dies has three sizes of the shapes; this tute uses the biggest ones, but the process would be the same to make a smaller pincushion with the smaller shapes.</p> <h2>What you need</h2> <ul> <li>Scraps of fabric for triangles, each at least 3×3" <li>4½×5¼" scrap of fabric for backing <li><a href="http://www.accuquilt.com/go-shop/dies/geometric/go-equilateral-triangles.html" target="_blank">AccuQuilt GO! Equilateral Triangles Die (55079)</a> <li><a href="http://www.accuquilt.com/go-shop/dies/geometric/go-hexagon-2-3-5.html" target="_blank">AccuQuilt GO! Hexagons Die–2", 3", 5" (55011)</a> <li><a href="http://www.accuquilt.com/go-shop/go-portable-fabric-cutters/go-fabric-cutter.html" target="_blank">AccuQuilt GO!</a> or <a href="http://www.accuquilt.com/go-shop/go-portable-fabric-cutters/go-baby-fabric-cutter.html" target="_blank">GO! Baby</a> die cutter and <a href="http://www.accuquilt.com/go-shop/cutting-mats-1/go-cutting-mat-6-x-12.html" target="_blank">6×12" cutting mat</a> <li>Ground walnut shells (sold by pet stores as bird litter) or other filling <li>Button <li>Extra scraps of fabric or felt for flower embellishment (optional) <li>Needle and thread, sewing machine, and the other usual suspects</li></ul> <p> </p> <h2>How to make it</h2> <p>Seam allowances are ¼". Sew all pieces with right sides together unless otherwise specified.</p> <ol> <li>Using the dies, cut out 6 large triangles and 1 large hexagon. I cut 3 triangles from each of my fabrics. Arrange the triangles to form a hexagon, alternating fabrics. Try to align the fabric’s grain with the dies’ blades so at least one edge of each piece will be on the straight of grain. <br><a title="AccuQuilt pincushion" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5982320195/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px 15px" border="0" alt="AccuQuilt pincushion" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6017/5982320195_e67816775f.jpg" width="390" height="266"></a> <li>To avoid Y-seams, sew the triangles together to make 2 half-hexagons, 3 triangles each. (Use a short stitch length if you’re filling with small particles like walnut shells.) Chain-piecing makes this super easy: sew the first 2 triangles from the left half-hexagon, then the first 2 triangles of the right half-hexagon, then add the third triangle to the left section, then the third to the right. Press the seam allowances in opposite directions for each half-hexagon. <br><a title="AccuQuilt pincushion" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5982881466/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px" border="0" alt="AccuQuilt pincushion" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6143/5982881466_ebab9f1085.jpg" width="390" height="314"></a><br><a title="AccuQuilt pincushion" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5982881540/"><img style="margin: 0px 0px 15px" border="0" alt="AccuQuilt pincushion" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6014/5982881540_6621bbebb6.jpg" width="390" height="314"></a> <li>Put the half-hexagons right sides together, matching up the outer edges and the seams. Pin if desired (I just rely on my machine’s dual feed for small projects like this), and sew the half-hexagons together on the longest edge. Press the seam allowance to one side. You should have a pieced hexagon equal in size to the die-cut hexagon, and thanks to the blunt corners of the triangles, no dog ears to chop off. I forgot to take a picture of this for the blue and green pincushion, so here it is in pink: <br><a title="AccuQuilt pincushion" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5982881282/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px 15px" border="0" alt="AccuQuilt pincushion" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6015/5982881282_052d2997d6.jpg" width="390" height="232"></a> <li>Put the pieced and die-cut hexagons right sides together. To help turn the open edge in after filling the cushion, start sewing perpendicular to the edge, sewing in ¼" and then pivoting 90 degrees to sew the actual seam. This photo shows the stitching at the start of my seam on the left, and the presser foot is positioned to sew out to the edge the same way after sewing all the way around the hexagons:<br><a title="AccuQuilt pincushion" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5982320559/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px" border="0" alt="AccuQuilt pincushion" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6008/5982320559_1359c013db.jpg" width="390" height="292"></a><br>Leave a gap as shown for filling, and sew the hexagons together using the triangle seams as guides for where to pivot at corners—when your needle meets the stitching, leave it down in the fabric (shown below), lift the presser foot, pivot to sew the next side, put the foot back down, and keep going until you get back the triangle you started on (finish the end as shown above).<br><a title="AccuQuilt pincushion" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5982881636/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px 15px" border="0" alt="AccuQuilt pincushion" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6018/5982881636_921298cfd3.jpg" width="390" height="292"></a> <li>Clip the corners (and pretend my seams are perfect). <br><a title="AccuQuilt pincushion" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5982881776/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px 15px" border="0" alt="AccuQuilt pincushion" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6017/5982881776_31a76c720b.jpg" width="390" height="314"></a> <li>Turn the cushion right side out through the gap, using a chopstick or other blunt tool to gently push out the corners, then give it a quick press. Looks much tidier this way, no? <br><a title="AccuQuilt pincushion" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5982320709/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px 15px" border="0" alt="AccuQuilt pincushion" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6145/5982320709_7ca020bc98.jpg" width="390" height="292"></a> <li>Spoon walnut shells into the cushion through the opening. You may want to set the cushion in a small box or bowl to catch any shells that go astray. Walnut shells are supposed to act like emery to sharpen pins, and I also like that they give the pincushions a little more heft than polyfill. A 7-pound bag of ground shells cost me about $10 at the pet store and is way, way, way more than I needed for all four of these cushions; I’m going to share the remains with anybody at my quilt guild who wants to make pincushions for our quilt show shop. Anyway, stuff the pincushion as full as you’re comfortable with, but make sure there’s a little give so you can cinch through the center without bursting seams and showering your sewing space in nut shells. Then ladder-stitch the opening closed. <br><a title="AccuQuilt pincushion" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5982320795/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px 15px" border="0" alt="AccuQuilt pincushion" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6127/5982320795_d961470d18.jpg" width="390" height="286"></a> <li>If your button isn’t particularly dazzling, cut a flower or two from felt or fabric and center it right side up on the top of the pincushion. Using strong thread, sew the button centered on top, sewing all the way through the pincushion to cinch it in the middle. The stitches on the back may want to pull the weave of the fabric open if your cushion is heavily filled; if you prefer, sew through another small button on the back to support the stitches.<br><a title="AccuQuilt pincushion" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5982882078/"><img style="margin: 10px 0px 15px" border="0" alt="AccuQuilt pincushion" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6004/5982882078_88b6b8c860.jpg" width="390" height="282"></a></li></ol> <p>All done! You can probably whip up a cushion faster than it took to read the instructions. </p> <p><a title="AccuQuilt pincushion" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5982451847/"><img style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" border="0" alt="AccuQuilt pincushion" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6015/5982451847_3b961fe166.jpg" width="420" height="307"></a></p> <p>These pincushions would be great foundations for embellishing further—you could insert rickrack in the side seam or put more elaborate fabric flowers on top, or even just use a fancier button than I had in my stash. Leave a comment if you have other ideas!</p> <p>If you’ve got a charity event coming up, feel free to make bunches of ’em to sell—the combination of scrap-friendliness and quick die cutting means they can be cranked out efficiently.</p> <p>As mentioned above, stay tuned for details on how I marked up my die to fussy-cut striped fabric…and to learn how you could win your own Go Baby cutter and dies from <a href="http://www.accuquilt.com/" target="_blank">AccuQuilt</a>!</p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-32256884017706987022010-12-22T22:42:00.001-08:002010-12-22T22:42:40.248-08:00Holiday cards, part II: removable fabric charm squares<p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5284364409/"><img title="piles o' Christmas cards" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="321" alt="piles o' Christmas cards" src="http://static.flickr.com/5242/5284364409_95b5dc628b.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://feeddog.blogspot.com/search/label/Christmas"><img title="Feed Dog Flurry" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; margin-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="94" alt="Feed Dog Flurry" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_6xK3tHs0KiU/TRLvXvwpehI/AAAAAAAAAK4/464CCGtiUwI/fdf2010%5B6%5D.png?imgmax=800" width="150" align="left" border="0" /></a> Christmas cards are out—hurrah! I’ve already shown you the fabric I drew in <a href="http://feeddog.blogspot.com/2010/12/holiday-cards-part-i-discharge-dyed.html">part I</a>, so today I’ll show you just how I incorporated the fabric into the cards.</p> <p>After much deliberating and prototyping, I decided everything would be much easier if I cut my fabric into mini charm squares—that is, 4" squares rather than the “official” charm square dimensions of 5". Shrinking to that size meant I could still feed the cards through my <a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000025933848&pubid=21000000000295664" target="_blank"><a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000032395609&pubid=21000000000295664" target="_blank">Sizzix BigKick machine</a> for</a> cutting and embossing without resorting to a nonstandard envelope size. So I made my cards A2 size, or a 5½×8½" sheet (half a letter-size page) folded in half, and may I just say that this designation is tremendously confusing as it has nothing whatsoever to do with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_216#The_A_series" target="_blank">international standard “A” paper sizes</a>, by which “A2” would be about 4 times the size of letter paper. Anyway, now I know. And so do you, in case it ever comes up on <em>Jeopardy</em>.</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5284962036/"><img title="card without fabric" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="419" alt="card without fabric" src="http://static.flickr.com/5121/5284962036_c58e04a905.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p>I printed my text and a snowflake on the inside of the card so it would be visible when I cut a window out of the front using a <a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000025085673&pid=1693&adurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sizzix.com%2Fproduct%2F1693&usg=AFHzDLuZSO9wRgZ6ejTWZMJvtjUUUyUgag&pubid=21000000000295664" target="_blank">Sizzix Movers & Shapers snowflake magnetic die</a> (you could cut a window whatever shape you want with a craft knife, of course). I embossed the card fronts with their <a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000025085673&pid=2435&adurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sizzix.com%2Fproduct%2F2435&usg=AFHzDLsoeAnb_BIuK37HlX6b9zW7HKciYw&pubid=21000000000295664" target="_blank">Snowflakes #6</a> and <a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000025085673&pid=2308&adurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sizzix.com%2Fproduct%2F2308&usg=AFHzDLtuQ8PB90C-ZW_QOjc2Pxyg5gSR7w&pubid=21000000000295664" target="_blank">Snowflakes #2 Textured Impressions folders</a> after cutting the windows.</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5284962144/"><img title="freezer paper card innards" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="456" alt="freezer paper card innards" src="http://static.flickr.com/5242/5284962144_c58912d019.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p>So here’s the trick: inside the card is a sheet of freezer paper that simultaneously explains to the recipient that yes, you should pull the card apart, and holds the charm square in place until the peeling commences. To hold the 4" square of fabric on the 4¼×5½" panel of the card, I set up 4⅛×5" freezer-paper labels, printed four on a page with an inkjet printer, and cut them to size. Precut letter-size freezer paper makes this a snap (and is a little meatier than the supermarket stuff), but you can cut regular freezer paper to page size for printing too.</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5284364533/"><img title="charm square with freezer paper backing" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="447" alt="charm square with freezer paper backing" src="http://static.flickr.com/5048/5284364533_cb971d5444.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p>Then place a charm square facedown on your ironing board, center a freezer-paper backing over it (shiny side to the fabric), and press the paper in place. When it’s cooled, peel the paper off your ironing board. There should be about ½" of freezer paper extending past the fabric on the top and bottom.</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5284962176/"><img title="charm square adhered to card" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="292" alt="charm square adhered to card" src="http://static.flickr.com/5084/5284962176_040342caa2.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p>Those ½" margins will adhere the freezer paper to the inside of the card front: iron them to the cardstock gently and they should stick well enough to hold the fabric in place without squashing the embossing. It doesn’t have to hold with the strength of a thousand men/women/beasts, since you’re telling people to tear it off when they get it.</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5284962224/"><img title="front of finished card" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="441" alt="front of finished card" src="http://static.flickr.com/5126/5284962224_c1395e4d31.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p>Close the card up, and there’s the fabric! I could have drawn my snowflakes so they’d be centered in the window, but just cutting the fabric as it was leaves the snowflakes peering enticingly through the window.</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5284364345/"><img title="card with stamped envelope" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="395" alt="card with stamped envelope" src="http://static.flickr.com/5169/5284364345_51f0019354.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p>Since I was on a papercrafting kick, I stamped the envelopes to match. But hopefully the cards use papercraft to show that I’m a fabric guy while giving my contacts a little tidbit of handmade fabric for their stashes.</p> <p>I’ve got a little something for my blog readers’ stashes, too, so stay tuned!</p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-61028185090762412152010-12-14T15:00:00.001-08:002010-12-14T15:00:13.209-08:00Tutorial: felt pinecone ornaments<p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5261963540/"><img title="felt pinecone ornaments" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="344" alt="felt pinecone ornaments" src="http://static.flickr.com/5163/5261963540_68aba22b77.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://feeddog.blogspot.com/search/label/Christmas"><img title="Feed Dog Flurry" style="display: inline; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px" height="93" alt="Feed Dog Flurry" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_6xK3tHs0KiU/TQf2_NuI63I/AAAAAAAAAKc/J6O6Hp7Zt9c/fdf2010%5B7%5D.png?imgmax=800" width="150" align="left" /></a> The Other promptly named these ornaments “butt stingers,” as this is apparently what they call pinecones in the land from whence he came. He insists he didn’t make the term up; nevertheless I’m a little disturbed. Whatever you call them, the pinecone ornaments turned out rather snazzy, if I do say so myself, and they have the added bonus of looking trickier than they actually are. </p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5261356009/"><img title="basic pinecone ornament" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="534" alt="basic pinecone ornament" src="http://static.flickr.com/5246/5261356009_fe62c3b69d.jpg" width="400" /></a></p> <p>This is the basic version, but you can glam it up with glitter reminiscent of snow:</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5261356095/"><img title="glittered pinecone ornament" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="305" alt="glittered pinecone ornament" src="http://static.flickr.com/5129/5261356095_b319fc89fc.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p>Use white glitter if you really want it to look like snow. Or make mini versions with pinked edges:</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5261356173/"><img title="mini pinecone ornament" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="317" alt="mini pinecone ornament" src="http://static.flickr.com/5203/5261356173_3b64f4c193.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p>So how do you make the stinkin’ stingers? Well, follow along…</p> <h2>Supplies</h2> <ul> <li>Aluminum foil</li> <li>Felt (you’ll use long strips, so a small amount of yardage would be best; ⅛ yard is more than enough for one ornament)</li> <li>Scalloping shears or rotary cutter with scallop blade (or pinking shears/blade for mini version)</li> <li>Hot glue gun with glue</li> <li>Heavy thread and hand needle</li> <li>Glitter, white glue, and disposable plate (optional)</li> </ul> <h2> </h2> <h2>Instructions</h2> <ol> <li>Form a wad of aluminum foil into a shape vaguely resembling a pinecone. I made mine tall and fairly slender, but there of course are fatter cones out there, so do as you like. This foil blob became the large light aqua pinecone:<a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5261355839/"><img title="step 1: foil blob" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 10px auto 20px" height="300" alt="step 1: foil blob" src="http://static.flickr.com/5124/5261355839_a622fd9d95.jpg" width="400" /></a></li> <li>Cut a strip about ½" wide from the felt, as long as you can, using the scalloping shears or rotary cutter. (If you can find scalloping shears, let me know—I’m beginning to think their existence is a hoax.) You’ll probably need to cut more than one strip, and it’s OK to leave on the inverted-scallop edge from cutting the first strip (actually, it’s helpful; see step 7). Do as I say, not as I show: the strip pictured is wider than it needs to be; ½" is plenty.<img title="step 2: slice up felt" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 10px auto 20px" height="274" alt="step 2: slice up felt" src="http://static.flickr.com/5282/5261962656_b3a6908493.jpg" width="400" /></li> <li>Your strip probably won’t end with a neat scallop. Trim off any partial scallops to make it easier to overlap the ends.<a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5261962704/"><img title="step 3: hack off ends" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 10px auto 20px" height="324" alt="step 3: hack off ends" src="http://static.flickr.com/5043/5261962704_70e62f88eb.jpg" width="400" /></a></li> <li>If you want to make the glittered version, pour some white glue onto a plate. Drag the scalloped edge of the felt through the glue. Then sprinkle glitter over the glue on the felt and let dry. Shake off the excess glitter when dry and then proceed with the rest of the instructions.</li> <li>Hot glue the end of the felt strip to the bottom tip of the foil blob, extending the scalloped edge a little bit beyond the foil. Wrap the strip tightly around the end to completely hide the foil tip. Wrap and glue in small sections so the glue doesn’t harden before you’ve stuck the felt to it.<a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5261355759/"><img title="step 4: wrap the tip" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 10px auto 20px" height="324" alt="step 4: wrap the tip" src="http://static.flickr.com/5201/5261355759_18fbc0c71e.jpg" width="400" /></a></li> <li>Continue coiling the felt around the foil, overlapping the scallops so they look like individual scales. Add another strip if the first runs out, hiding the ends of the strips in the subsequent coils.<a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5261962952/"><img title="step 6: coil around the foil" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 10px auto 20px" height="300" alt="step 6: coil around the foil" src="http://static.flickr.com/5170/5261962952_7dfb6c77f8.jpg" width="400" /></a></li> <li>The top of the ornament can be dealt with a couple of ways. As you can see in the photo above, the edge of my strip opposite the scallops had inverted scallop notches cut into it from a previous strip, and these notches helped the felt ease around the curved top:<a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5261963342/"><img title="step 7: gather around the top" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 10px auto 0px" height="319" alt="step 7: gather around the top" src="http://static.flickr.com/5010/5261963342_9a2d8e0f7f.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />Instead, you could cut a circle of felt with the same scallop edge and glue that on, as I did for the bright aqua pinecone:<a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5261963424/"><img title="step 7: glue circle on top" style="display: block; float: none; margin: 10px auto 0px" height="310" alt="step 7: glue circle on top" src="http://static.flickr.com/5050/5261963424_7b3f1cf4dd.jpg" width="400" /></a> <br />With the circle method, sew the hanging loop (next step) to the circle before gluing the circle in place.</li> <li>Cut a length of thread a little longer than twice the desired finished length of the hanging loop. Thread the needle with both ends and sew the ends through the top of the ornament (if using the eased-top method, bring the needle out between tucks). Remove the needle and tie the ends of the thread together securely. Trim the thread tails. If using the eased-top method, pull the hanging loop to bury the knot between the tucks and scales of the ornament; if using the circle method, hot glue the knot side to the top of the ornament.</li> </ol> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p>That’s it! Play with different shears or blades to change the look of the scales and make a whole treeful.</p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-52289876820624010852010-12-13T23:23:00.001-08:002010-12-13T23:29:15.047-08:00Snowflake ornaments 6–9<p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5260295376/"><img title="snowflake ornament 6" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="424" alt="snowflake ornament 6" src="http://static.flickr.com/5168/5260295376_eaf3f942f8.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://feeddog.blogspot.com/search/label/Christmas"><img title="Feed Dog Flurry" style="display: inline; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px" height="94" alt="Feed Dog Flurry" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_6xK3tHs0KiU/TQcch0ZA6bI/AAAAAAAAAKY/Fv4ClB8KRnk/fdf2010%5B6%5D.png?imgmax=800" width="150" align="left" /></a>I was delighted to find cheap packs of felt snowflake ornaments at Target—they make great bases for embellishing with further snowflake paraphernalia. The one above is that felt base with a snowflake die-cut from Sizzix’s <a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000025085673&pid=2400&adurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sizzix.com%2Fproduct%2F2400&usg=AFHzDLt7r69gGu7LuQkQdHgz67jLAOtW9Q&pubid=21000000000295664">Snowflake Layered die</a>, a felt snowflake sticker (<a href="http://feeddog.blogspot.com/2010/12/mini-tutorial-snowflake-ornament-1.html">details here</a>), and self-stick rhinestones in silver and aqua. (By the way, please excuse the wonky lighting and shadows—using the flash was the only way to get the white flakes to show up against the white walls and ceiling.)</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5259686747/"><img title="snowflake ornament 7" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="471" alt="snowflake ornament 7" src="http://static.flickr.com/5088/5259686747_cbfb2c3496.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p>Same idea with this one, but the felt sticker is under a six-pointed star cut with the <a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000025933848&pubid=21000000000295664" target="_blank">Sizzix</a> Snowflake, Hanging 3-D #2 die (apparently discontinued). The star is then topped with a snowflake flat. The little bits of aqua felt where the punch-outs left over from the sticker in the middle.</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5260295176/"><img title="snowflake ornament 8" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="383" alt="snowflake ornament 8" src="http://static.flickr.com/5204/5260295176_9a33699b20.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p>Clearly I got a lot of mileage out of those felt stickers. I used glitter glue to detail this ornament, but I kind of think it looks a little primary-school-ish as a result. What do you think?</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5260295264/"><img title="snowflake ornament 9" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="470" alt="snowflake ornament 9" src="http://static.flickr.com/5044/5260295264_e1215b62db.jpg" width="430" /></a></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p>The base flake for this one is a bit different, and that’s because Michaels also had packs of felt snowflake blank with a different shape than the Target ones. I left the points of the flake alone since they were fairly beefy, and used the Snowflake Layered die again with yet another felt sticker and a rhinestone—this time one shaped like a snowflake.</p> <p>With a few flake bases left and a fresh pack of felt stickies, I could whip up another batch before bed tonight…but perhaps I need to put the craft supplies away and just go to sleep already.</p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-1683541507292517482010-12-02T16:37:00.001-08:002010-12-02T16:38:39.339-08:00Mini-tutorial: snowflake ornament 1<p><img title="snowflake ornament 1 of...I lost count." style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto" height="332" alt="snowflake ornament 1 of...I lost count." src="http://static.flickr.com/4087/5227774924_3ffda6abca.jpg" width="430" /></p> <p><a href="http://feeddog.blogspot.com/search/label/Christmas"><img title="Feed Dog Flurry" style="display: inline; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px" height="150" alt="Feed Dog Flurry" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_6xK3tHs0KiU/TPg7zRsyXkI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/kBi9IxtvAZE/fdf2010%5B5%5D.png?imgmax=800" width="240" align="left" /></a> Let’s start with a super simple one. You could make this beaded snowflake ornament much more elaborate depending on your bead stash; I just messed about with the limited supply I had on hand.</p> <p>What makes this a really brainless project is a “snowflake ornament form”—a six-spoked premade wire form. I found a pack of 7 for a couple bucks at a local craft store; you’re looking for <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019F38KY/?tag=maisonaise-20" target="_blank">something like this</a>. No worries if you can’t find them, though; just use pliers to twist together 3 stiff wires about 4½" long.</p> <p>The other big timesaver with this ornament (and many others in the veritable snowstorm hanging from our living room ceiling) is a sack of felt snowflake stickers, precut and prestickified in various shapes, colors, and sizes. The ones shown here came from Jo-Ann, but Michaels has slightly different ones. Again, just a couple bucks for about a hundred. This ornament also has a sneaky trick with the felt stickers—read on!</p> <h2>Supplies</h2> <ul> <li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019F38KY/?tag=maisonaise-20" target="_blank">4½" wire snowflake ornament form</a></li> <li>Two 1¾" and two ⅞" felt snowflake stickers</li> <li>24 silver or clear bugle beads</li> <li>6 round glass beads</li> <li>Twelve ½" felt circle stickers (see step 3)</li> <li>Twelve 8mm sequins</li> <li>Craft glue</li> <li>2 self-stick rhinestones</li> <li>Thread or other hangy thingy</li> </ul> <h3></h3> <p></p> <h2>Instructions</h2> <ol> <li>Remove the paper backing and stick one of the larger snowflake stickers over the intersection of the wires on the ornament form, lining up the points of the sticker with the spokes of the form. Flip the form over and stick another matching snowflake sticker over the first, aligning the edges of the stickers and covering the wire. Yes folks, this ornament looks good from both sides. Squeeze the stickers together to adhere them to each other firmly.</li> <li>Stick a smaller snowflake sticker in the center of each larger one. I rotated my small stickers so the space between the points would match up with the precut holes in the bigger sticker behind—might as well let them show rather than covering them up.</li> <li>On one of the wire spokes, thread 2 bugle beads, a round bead, and 2 more bugle beads. To keep them from falling right back off, sandwich 2 felt circle stickers sticky sides together around the end of the wire. Some of the snowflakes in my bag o’ stickers had round holes in the middle, and the circles filling the holes hadn’t been removed, so I popped ’em out and used them on the ends of the spokes. (That’s the sneaky bit. Not really <em>that</em> sneaky.) If you’re sans snowflake doughtnut holes, cut or punch ½" circles from a sticker-backed felt sheet, or just from regular felt and use a bit of glue to stick them on the wires.</li> <li>Repeat step 3 for each of the wire spokes.</li> <li>Bling time. Use a dab of glue to stick a sequin to each of the felt circles on both sides of the ornament (let the glue dry between sides). When all the glue has dried, stick a rhinestone in the center of the ornament on both sides.</li> <li>Tie a loop of thread to one of the spokes (below the felt circles) or attach the hanging implement of your choice. Fin!</li> </ol> <p>By the way, “mini-tutorial” means I didn’t take step-by-step photos. But really, do you need a picture to tell you how to stick a sticker?</p> <p>Tune in tomorrow for more…</p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-22270217510554261762010-11-24T17:45:00.001-08:002010-11-24T17:49:55.984-08:00Free Pattern: Snowmen for appliqué or embroideryOK, OK; I know tomorrow is Thanksgiving. But I’ve been itching for Christmas since the Halloween accoutrements hit stores, and for once I’ve had no problem with Chrimbo being rolled out ridiculously early by the gods on Mount Retail. (But please, keep the effing holiday music away from me. Yech. This will forever be a playlist-free blog.) I’m dying to get the tree and ornaments put up, and I’ve actually already started covering our living room ceiling with snowflakes. Last Christmas was a bit of a non-starter, so I’m ready to put my Grinchy ways aside and spread some cheer, dammit.<br />
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What does this mean for you? Well, I’m planning to share all my crafty Christmas stuff (“crap” would’ve alliterated better, but I shan’t give you crap!) with you here—photos, tutorials, patterns, and other bits of fun. So to start with, a free pattern for appliqué (or embroidery, if you like)!<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/5205156021/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="Snowman tea towels" height="301" src="http://static.flickr.com/4084/5205156021_213fb77667.jpg" title="Snowman tea towels" width="400" /></a><br />
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I made these tea towels for Middle Brother and his wife a couple years ago, fusing wool felt to the background to give the snowmen some dimension. A really narrow zigzag around the edge of the felt with matching or invisible thread rounds the edges rather splendidly.<br />
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Something was missing, though: how did snowman A, standing happily, become snowman B, melting into a sloppy pile of sludge? Snowman C, armed with a hairdryer, is the culprit:<br />
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<img alt="Snowmen, Before" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb4hmNk4HFFDT2JT_BJ4WvK5Iovy8Xkc286IT49ZCu3e_QIlZs_3w4Re2VOj8kJTjJ-RbEFLkJVYGqj7kDaBAhGfZYKkJZ0WCbhltwClUvQ1-eo6Hhm4sPXC09ZWx04IQVaCR-_UMo-V4c/?imgmax=800" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Snowmen, Before" width="320" /> <br />
<img alt="Snowmen, After" height="160" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_6xK3tHs0KiU/TO2_wYZcbSI/AAAAAAAAAJU/g0GyVHNcXo8/snowmanmelts%5B6%5D.png?imgmax=800" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Snowmen, After" width="320" /> <br />
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Why is Snowman C so ill-spirited? You’ll have to supply your own motivation; I’m just supplying the pattern.<br />
If you’re not feeling the appliqué, try a melting redwork snowman instead:<br />
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<img alt="Snowmen in Redwork" height="160" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_6xK3tHs0KiU/TO2_xWw7BbI/AAAAAAAAAJY/rN9DfV4fzjc/snowmenredwork%5B7%5D.png?imgmax=800" style="display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Snowmen in Redwork" width="320" /> <br />
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Two formats are available:<br />
<ul><li><a href="http://www.feeddog.net/downloads/download-document/8-snowmen-applique-or-embroidery-patterns.html">Get the PDF</a> to print out and transfer for your favorite appliqué or embroidery technique.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.feeddog.net/downloads/download-document/7-snowmen-applique-motifs-for-eq7.html">Get the EQ7 project file</a> to use the snowmen blocks (on the Motifs tab) in your own quilts or other EQ designs.</li>
</ul>Designs are copyright © 2010 <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/" target="_blank">Feed Dog Designs</a>, but you’re free to use them on Christmas gifts, decor, or whatever you like. Happy stitching, happy Thanksgiving, and look for more holiday goodies here soon!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-47530796633425274532009-07-20T21:06:00.001-07:002009-07-20T21:06:47.617-07:00How to make a portable ironing station<p><em>Spring cleaning season may be over, but organizing is a year-long battle. I’m finally starting to get my sewing room/office into a shape I like, so this post is the first in a series on furniture hacks, storage ideas, vintage sewing space eye candy, and other stuff on creating a craft space. I love seeing these types of posts on other people’s blogs, so I hope you’ll get some ideas here too!</em></p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/3740176439/"><img title="portable ironing station" height="381" alt="portable ironing station" src="http://static.flickr.com/3484/3740176439_44792701e5.jpg" width="400" /></a></p> <p>When I started quilting, an iron and a board to use it on (now <a href="http://feeddog.blogspot.com/2007/06/death-of-ironing-board.html" target="_blank">deceased</a>) were all I needed. But the tools quickly accumulated—spray starch, pressing cloths, water bottles, iron cleaner, and so on. Never mind that I now use three different irons for distinct purposes. The sensible place to store such things is near where one irons, but one doesn’t always iron in a place with ample storage. <a title="Creating Your Perfect Quilting Space by Lois L. Hallock" href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1564775690/?tag=maisonaise-20" target="_blank">This book</a> points out that a conventional ironing board wastes space compared to, say, some cupboards with a pressing surface on top. Agreed, but the layout of my sewing room necessitates that the ironing board live in front of the design wall, so I want it portable enough to move easily when I’m laying out a big quilt on the wall. An <a href="http://ikeahacker.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Ikea hack</a> keeps all my pressing accoutrements near my iron—and lets me easily move them to a secondary pressing surface near my sewing machine.</p> <p>The base of my ironing trolley is Ikea’s <a href="http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60119044" target="_blank">Antonius laundry bag with stand</a>, with <a href="http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/14368980" target="_blank">casters</a> added. The baskets on the stand fit spray bottles and other bits and bobs, and fabric waiting to be pressed goes in the laundry bag rather than into a big heap on my floor. I’m looking for a water bottle with some sort of nozzle that would fit in one of the baskets so I wouldn’t have to run to the sink so often when the iron runs out of steam.</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/3740176329/"><img title="iron plugs into power strip for easy access" height="533" alt="iron plugs into power strip for easy access" src="http://static.flickr.com/2433/3740176329_e383c1162a.jpg" width="400" /></a></p> <p>Using a couple cable ties from Montera (a set of various cable clips and ties from Ikea; can’t find it on their site), I attached a power strip to one of the uprights so I can turn the iron on and off with a flick of a (lighted) switch rather than reaching awkwardly round furniture to unplug it. A couple self-stick nonslip pads on the back of the strip help keep it from sliding down. Someday I may come up with some more permanent hardware to mount the power strip, but this works for now. It helps to use a strip with a reasonably long cord so you can mount it on the front of the cart and still run the cord to the back.</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/3740176329/"><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/3740176495/"><img title="ironing-board holder houses iron and pressing sheet" height="466" alt="ironing-board holder houses iron and pressing sheet" src="http://static.flickr.com/3459/3740176495_32557b16d0.jpg" width="400" /></a></a></p> <p>My primary iron lives in the in the iron rest on the ironing board, and the board is rarely put away, so this door-mounted rack for both iron and board wasn’t getting much use. I hung it from the end of the Antonius cart using a couple <a href="http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80072644" target="_blank">Bygel S-hooks</a>, and now I keep my fusible-only iron there, along with a Teflon pressing sheet rolled up in the hooks meant to hold the ironing board. A cup (meant to hang on a rail; also apparently not on the Ikea site) facing the other way keeps the hooks from sliding together and gives a place for smaller stuff, like bias-tape makers and tubes of iron cleaner.</p> <p><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/3740968906/"><img title="with removable pressing surface" height="299" alt="with removable pressing surface" src="http://static.flickr.com/3430/3740968906_63923633be.jpg" width="400" /></a></p> <p>As I mentioned, the whole thing unplugs, rolls over to my sewing machine, and becomes a secondary pressing surface at (more or less) sitting height by topping the unit with a mini ironing board. The corners of Antonius have holes for screws; after much fiddling about at the hardware store, I determined that they take size 10-32 screws. I put one in each hole, letting them stick out about ½" (you can see them sticking out two photos up). Then I measured the center-to-center distances between them (a 52.5cm × 23cm rectangle—it’s Ikea, so metric gives prettier numbers!) and made corresponding marks on the bottom of the ironing board. Mine was made from particle board, so I drilled holes big enough for the screw heads at each mark, about ¼" deep. Shake the sawdust out, line up the screw heads with the holes, and set it on the Antonius frame—it’s secure enough to iron on (using the mini iron I keep in the bottom basket) but still lifts off easily when it’s time to roll the trolley back to the main ironing board. I’m thinking about rigging up some hooks on the back of the unit to hang the mini ironing board from when it’s not in use; for now, I just stick it behind my sewing table.</p> <p>I didn’t have any of this in mind when I bought the laundry stand, but now I use it with the mini board almost more than my real ironing board, since it means I can just swivel my chair from sewing to pressing.</p> <p>Stay tuned for more sewing-oriented Ikea hacks!</p> <div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-70007931467180424162008-11-02T17:49:00.000-08:002008-11-02T17:53:09.342-08:00Tutorial: Freezer-paper circle appliqué for quilt labels<p>I had to quickly put a label on a quilt this week before sending it out into the world (more details on that later!). It seemed like a good opportunity to snap some pics for a tutorial on an appliqué method that uses freezer paper and starch and is a favourite of my quilt guild. It's a great technique for quilt labels, since the freezer paper stabilizes the fabric for writing on, and a circle cutter makes it even easier.</p> <p>I wanted a round label so it would blend in with the bubbly fabric on the backing. That's where the circle cutter comes in.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2982563081/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3164/2982563081_f6f26c46ee_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a></p> <p>This <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006HUJ0S/?tag=maisonaise-20">circle cutter made by Fiskars</a> was stocked with the papercraft supplies (I have used it to cut circles from fabric fused to fusible web—it dulled the blades and required a more careful movement but worked pretty well). There's a needle tip and a pad tip; use the needle tip. The <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XAWLH2/?tag=maisonaise-20">guide</a> is sold separately but helps find exactly where you're going to cut. The cutter blade tears up the mat a bit, so I use the cutting mat I use with X-Acto knives rather than the one I use to rotary cut fabric.</p> <p style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-size:130%;">Materials</span></p> <ul> <li>Fabric </li> <li>Freezer paper </li> <li>Iron </li> <li>Circle cutter, guide, and cutting mat (or scissors) </li> <li>Pinking shears </li> <li>Spray starch </li> <li>Paintbrush </li> <li>Stiletto or chopstick </li> <li>Ruler</li><li>Pen or marker</li><li>Light box or other bright light source<br /></li> <li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008G8G8Y/?tag=maisonaise-20">Fabric marking pen</a> </li> </ul><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Instructions</span><br /><span style="font-size:100%;">Click on any of the photos to </span>zoom in.<br /><p> </p> <ol> <li>Iron 2 pieces of freezer paper together, shiny sides down. The doubled thickness is easier to wrap the fabric around. </li> <li>Place the guide onto the freezer paper. I wanted a 3-inch circle. If you're making a shape other than a circle, draw it on the freezer paper, cut it out with scissors, and skip down to Step 6.<br /><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2983420096/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3231/2983420096_03f93993b3_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a> </li> <li>Place the cutter on the guide, lining up the cutter's feet with the marked spots on the guide. Make sure the cutting blade is above the guide's open notch.<br /><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2983420148/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3213/2983420148_ee0b666494_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a></li> <li>Press down on the orange center of the cutter. While pressing, slide the guide out.<br /><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2982563247/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3202/2982563247_7f8fe22945_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a></li> <li>Keep pressing and turn the body of the cutter around in a circle. You shouldn't have to apply much pressure. So, now you've got a perfect circle!<br /><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2983420252/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3143/2983420252_aa0c2a58ef_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a> <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2983420290/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3293/2983420290_57b9336b73_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a><br /></li> <li>Back to the ironing board. Press the freezer paper to the fabric, shiny side down against the back side of the fabric. (Your fabric doesn't have to be the same shape as the freezer paper at this point; I just happened to have a circle scrap.)<br /><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2983420342/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3150/2983420342_137ff51955_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a><br /></li> <li>Cut around the freezer paper with pinking shears, just shy of ¼" from the edge of the paper. Or you can use scissors and clip into the seam allowance periodically, but the pinking shears cut out (geddit?) the clipping step and reduce fraying.<br /><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2983420408/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3019/2983420408_cac4fc2c08_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a></li> <li>Spray some starch into the cap of the can or another small container. Once the bubbles settle and the starch is a liquid, paint some onto the seam allowance. You can wet a few inches of the seam allowance at a time.<br /><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2982563531/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3069/2982563531_5ec230ee84_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a><br /></li> <li>Press the wet seam allowance over the edge of the freezer paper. A sealing iron like this one is easier to handle than a full-size iron, but anything works. Use a stiletto to pull the seam allowance down onto the paper—I wasn't about to spend $15+ on a sharp stick, so I just use a chopstick. You can't see the chopstick in the photo because I needed to hold the camera and don't have three hands (or a prehensile tail, which would really be preferable); it's generally easier to hold the stiletto/chopstick in your dominant hand. When you get near the end of the allowance you've wet, paint some more. If you get a fold or a point ironed in, just wet it and repress.<br /><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2983420518/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3281/2983420518_bdbc124fa4_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a><br /></li> <li>When you've pressed all the seam allowances down, give the whole piece a quick press.<br /><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2982563635/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3169/2982563635_1f4d1cf654_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a><br /></li> <li>Normally you'd remove the freezer paper now, but since we're making a quilt label, we're not done with it. To help keep your lines of label text straight, draw heavy lines on the freezer paper. I lined my ruler up with the half-inch marks on the cutting mat to keep them parallel and evenly spaced.<br /><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2983420594/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3196/2983420594_2f7942ac52_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a><br /></li> <li>Chuck the thing on a light box. Or a bright window, or a glass table or clear box with a lamp under it. See how the lines peek through? So does the lovely blob my pen made while waiting for me to focus the camera. (I'm also noticing that my pressing job could have been better—I should have repressed those points on the edge. Instead I rounded them out when I was sewing.)<br /><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2982563697/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3220/2982563697_d894a55296_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a><br /></li> <li>Write your text with a fabric-marking pen, using the lines as guides. I can never get everything centered, but at least the lines are straight. Pop the label off the light box.<br /><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2982563743/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3152/2982563743_748d74ebf7_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a><br /></li> <li>Now you can peel the freezer paper out. The fabric will keep the circle shape.<br /><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2983420718/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3214/2983420718_20a0e76f3f_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a><br />How do you like them super-pink fingers? I'm having a little trouble getting my screen colour calibrated. </li> <li>And sew the sucker down! I sewed this one down by hand with a blind stitch, but sewing a label to a finished quilt, you can sew by machine with monofilament thread and a blind-hem stitch. Either way, I highly recommend <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001684BPA/?tag=maisonaise-20">basting glue</a> over pins.<br /></li> </ol><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://flickr.com/photos/feeddog/2982563849/" title="freezer paper appliqué"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3039/2982563849_e8720dfd40_m.jpg" title="freezer paper appliqué" alt="freezer paper appliqué" height="180" width="240" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">And that's it. You don't have to make the circles into labels, of course, but on the other hand, quilt labels don't have to be rectangles!<br /><br /></div> </div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-23614348098807509402008-09-16T16:41:00.000-07:002008-09-16T16:47:29.981-07:00Tutorial: (Almost) All-Purpose Appliqué Board<p>A few weeks back, I spent the weekend stitching with some women from my quilt guild. This was the perfect excuse to finally get some needleturn projects going that had been languishing in set-up phase. While I was gathering all my bits and bobs to shove into my quilting-to-go bag, I came up with my new favourite quilting tool. Keep your bobbin winders and your Thangles; I'm all about the clipboard.</p> <p style="text-align: center;"><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/2863287263/"><img alt="appliqué clipboard" src="http://static.flickr.com/3114/2863287263_a2f90cb74b.jpg" width="400" height="266" /></a> <br /></p> <p>Yes, a boring old clipboard is the current apple of my eye. Mainly I needed a sandboard, something the Mother has for keeping fabric from stretching while tracing appliqué shapes. She also makes crude versions by spray-mounting a sheet of sandpaper insider a file folder. And while this is a clever trick, I wanted something a little sturdier. I clipped a sheet of sandpaper to a clipboard, and behold! There it was. But my thoughts kept drifting to other 9" x 12" accoutrements to trick out the board with. So I now present my (Almost) All-Purpose Appliqué Board. This may seem like a long-winded tutorial for a tool that's really pretty simple, but the sequence of the stack is important to access everything properly.</p> <ol> <li>You'll first need a letter-sized <b>clipboard</b>. Mine cost all of 39¢ at a thrift shop. </li> <li><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/2864119968/"><img alt="appliqué board cutting layer" src="http://static.flickr.com/3021/2864119968_422b8a8908.jpg" align="right" width="240" height="162" /></a>A <b>self-healing cutting mat</b> is the first layer of the board, useful for cutting out appliqué pieces with an <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O8836/?tag=maisonaise-20">18mm rotary cutter</a> and, for straight lines, a credit-card-size ruler (a much appreciated freebie from a local quilt shop). I happened to have a 9" x 12" mat on hand, but they can be tricky to find. Here's a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015LWVAK/?tag=maisonaise-20">Fiskars one</a> punched (but too tall) to fit in a three-ring binder, an <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S16KWS/?tag=maisonaise-20">X-Acto 8.5" x 12" mat</a>, or an <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YZ5QMS/?tag=maisonaise-20">8.75" x 11.75" one from Omnigrid</a>. You might be able to use a cut-out section from an older mat instead. My ungridded mat came from a start-quilting combo pack (can't find anything to link to, sorry) that I bought so the Other could have his own rotary cutter (it was a pretty crap gift, since I kept the cutting mat and the ruler for my own evil purposes and am now eying up the cutter for permanent pinking blade installation). When clipped, the cutting mat will probably be a little longer than the clipboard, but it's stiff enough that it shouldn't matter. </li> <li><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/2863287363/"><img alt="appliqué board tracing layer" src="http://static.flickr.com/3281/2863287363_d6a95eefe6.jpg" align="right" width="240" height="162" /></a>On the cutting mat goes a sheet of <b>sandpaper</b>. Standard sheets are about 9" x 11", so they'll fit right over the cutting mat. Put your fabric down against the sandpaper when tracing around a template, and it won't slip and stretch as much. </li> <li><a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15802550@N00/2863287397/"><img alt="appliqué board design layer" src="http://static.flickr.com/3199/2863287397_ee70cbb4d9.jpg" align="right" width="240" height="162" /></a>Put a sheet of <b>white felt</b> on top of the sandpaper. No need for fancy wool—one of the precut sheets of acrylic craft felt will work perfectly. This can be used as a mini design wall for laying out whatever block you're working on. I use it when I'm gluing the pieces down onto the foundation. </li> <li>I'm also planning to try adding an <b>overhead transparency</b> with a block design printed onto it to help position the pieces on the foundation. The felt will help keep the foundation in place while using the overlay. </li> <li>Clip everything into the clipboard. You just have to lift back the layers to get to the one you need. If there's any info you refer to frequently, you could stick it on the back of the clipboard. Templates can be tucked between the layers so they don't get scrunched in your workbag, and you can even leave fabric bits stuck to the felt layer during transport if you're not too rough on the board. </li> </ol> <p>Simple, right? I've been using it quite a bit at home for working on appliqué in front of the TV.</p><p>So why is it only almost all-purpose? Well, there's no ironing surface. You can't press on it. I'm sure some industrious someone could come up with a way, but for something cobbled together from what I had lying about the sewing room, I'm pretty satisfied.</p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4752843223933877970.post-31265868634804872612007-10-18T15:02:00.000-07:002007-10-18T15:06:54.734-07:00Tutorial: cover for Ikea ironing board<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/feeddog/1621957589/" title="an ironing board cover that doesn't make me cringe"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2195/1621957589_cea38bf349_m.jpg" alt="recovered ironing board" height="180" width="240" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOGTJnOqLFjLedTvJndlB03nu79TS-LZ4M95QEGCNeX507Y_UVrWJMkHhCdDt32BAsU2tdpCsbZbJdlXlTVkIFiHAmkz6tww7D6MgRaNdMkVuyckV4zf2Wss6zs2maJfUhSWtFOqFA4Eve/s1600-h/50402_PE146968_S3.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOGTJnOqLFjLedTvJndlB03nu79TS-LZ4M95QEGCNeX507Y_UVrWJMkHhCdDt32BAsU2tdpCsbZbJdlXlTVkIFiHAmkz6tww7D6MgRaNdMkVuyckV4zf2Wss6zs2maJfUhSWtFOqFA4Eve/s200/50402_PE146968_S3.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5122790244891753810" border="0" /></a>Given the <a title="disastrous death" href="http://feeddog.blogspot.com/2007/06/death-of-ironing-board.html" id="dm.6">disastrous death</a> of my previous ironing board, a replacement was necessary. But Ikea's <a href="http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20091787" id="be6." title="link to Ikea site">Dänka</a> comes with the gross scribbly flower cover shown at left, which would clearly be bullied by the other decor of my burgeoning sewing room/office. So using some green and grey <a href="http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40098127" id="igr." title="link to Ikea website">Pernilla</a> fabric that will match the eventual curtains, I threw together a simple new cover using the existing one as a pattern. Here's how, in case anybody else is similarly turned off by the default cover. (And trust me! The steps look long, but it really is pretty simple.)<br /></div></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(102, 102, 102);">Materials:</span><br /><ul> <li> Dänka ironing board </li> <li>1 1/2 yds (1.5m) cotton fabric, such as Pernilla (there will be lots of excess, but if the pattern runs up the bolt, you'll need this much)<br /></li> <li> Straight pins </li> <li>Clear acrylic ruler </li> <li> Pencil or fabric chalk (a regular pencil is fine; the marks will be hidden in the seam allowance)<br /></li> <li> Scissors </li> <li> Sewing machine </li> <li> Thread </li> <li> Safety pin<br /></li> </ul><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(102, 102, 102);">Instructions:</span><br /><ol> <li> Untie the string holding the cover to the ironing board. Pull the string out of the cover and set the string aside. Remove the cover from the board, leaving the padding in place.<br /></li> <li> Use the old cover as a pattern for the new one: Place the cover flat on the right side of the fabric, allowing 1 inch (2.5cm) all the way around for seams. Pin the cover to the fabric every few inches along the perimeter, smoothing the cover as you go to keep it flat. </li> <li> Mark the seam allowance around the old cover: Use the ruler and pencil or chalk to mark 1 inch (2.5cm) from the old cover all the way around the "pattern". When turning corners, make short marks and move the ruler frequently. </li> <li> Cut the fabric out along the marked line. Do not unpin it from the old cover. </li> <li> Turn the old cover and fabric over so the wrong side of the fabric faces you. Snip into the seam allowance, almost 1 inch (2.5cm), at the tip of the arm (at the same place where the string ends came out of the old cover). Zigzag stitch along the edges and end of the snip to prevent fraying.<br /></li> <li> Fold a double hem for the cord channel: Remove a pin and fold 1/2 inch (1.25cm) of the fabric edge in, then fold that edge in another 1/2 inch (1.25cm). The outside fold should line up with the edge of the old cover beneath. Repin the hem, catching only the new fabric. Repeat around the perimeter of the cover. There will be extra fabric bulk in the curves or the seam allowance—a pro seamstress/seamster would make them nice and neat, but since the channel gets cinched by the cord anyway, I just flattened out the folds as best I could. Chuck out the nasty old cover or save it for future pattern use. </li> <li> Sew the channel: Starting and the snip made in Step 5, sew a straight stitch close to the fold of the hem, removing pins as you go. Adjust the bulk around curves as necessary. </li> <li> Insert the cord: Tie the string to the safety pin. Insert the pin into one end of the channel and work it through to the other end. You'll periodically need to slide the cinches onto the loose end of the string. When finished, you should have a roughly equal amount of string on each side of the channel opening. </li> <li> Fit the new cover around the board: Place the cover on the ironing board, keeping the padding that came with the board in place. If the cover got wrinkled when inserting the string, iron it now. Use something flat to push the end of the cover through the small space between the end of the board and the iron holder. Arrange the cover so there is a roughly even amount of material around all the edges, again making sure the padding stays in place. Pull the string to cinch the cover around the board. Tie the ends of the string a few times to secure. </li> </ol><br />All the pinning and whatnot takes some time, but the finished product will make me much less cranky while ironing.<br /><br />If you're looking to sew a completely new cover (that is, with fresh padding and everything), try the instructions on <a href="http://www.purlbee.com/ironing-board-recovery-project/2006/11/20/how-to-make-an-ironing-board-cover.html" id="o77b" title="The Purl Bee">The Purl Bee</a>.<br /><br/><div class="blogger-post-footer"><br /><hr />Get Feed Dog Designs patterns: <a href="http://www.feeddog.net/shop.html">Feeddog.net</a> | <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=616629&b=363493&m=29190&afftrack=fdrss&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2Fpattern%2Fstore%2F460383">Craftsy</a> | <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=d7vWf4mSHiA&subid=&offerid=266289.1&type=10&tmpid=10772&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.interweavestore.com%2Fcatalogsearch%2Fresult%2F%3Fq%3Dkosbab">Sew Daily</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08822237828388028883noreply@blogger.com1